Tuesday 27 November 2007

A brief list of things I like about Singapore

1 - Singapore's Changi airport is the most efficient I have ever been to. I have travelled to it and through it a dozen times or so. Without fail the time between touchdown and taxi departure has been less than 25 minutes. The immigration staff are pleasant (unlike Sydney) and effective (unlike Heathrow, Bangkok or many other airports I could name.) The taxi queue is organised with military precision by friendly smiling staff with smashing white gloves!2 - City planning is something of an art in Singapore. It seems that there has been a clear city plan since the time of sir Thomas Raffles' founding of the colony way back in 1819. I was surprised and a little thrilled to see the colonial influences that abound. Throughout the island there are wide tree lined boulevards that stretch ahead like a cinematic trick of the eyes. They remind me of my early youth growing up in colonial Africa. These tree lined streets are found on the main arterial routes into the city as well as throughout the city itself.

3 - The main shopping street (Orchard Road) is a wide set boulevard that has shade cover from two long strips of very grand tall trees (figs?) on each side of the road. The pavements have been built wide and are luxurious in the space they provide. Each pavement also has a strip of vegetation that gives the shopping experience on Orchard Road a relaxed and leisurely feel. Apparently Orchard road has the highest concentration of shopping malls in the world. Quite a claim to fame ...

4 - The locals speak great English. Excuse me for being lazy but hey it doesn't half make a difference.

5 - The restaurants are fantastic. My favourite for dinner is Graze restaurant. A beautifully designed restaurant where most dining takes place outside. The food is modern 'fusion' and the menu is extensive and well presented. The addition of a large screen that plays black and white movies in French adds a wonderful if slightly eccentric touch.

6 - Hotel lobby Karaoke. It is true that the entertainment in most hotels each evening is amateur karaoke. Whether run by teenage Philipinno's or middle aged expats there's something for everyone (although a few drinks might be necessary!)

Sunday 25 November 2007

Atonement


This weekend in Thailand was Loy Krathong. An ancient Thai festival that celebrates two main things; Thais connection with water and a basic human yearning to be cleansed of troubles, worries or sins.


The festival itself is very important in Thailand and many rivers or klongs are covered in little individual lights gently floating along. Each light a representation of the fact that humans feel a very strong need to purge themselves of negative feelings about things that have past.


It struck me quite strongly how many parallels this beautiful festival holds with behaviours of other culture, religions and beliefs.


We all need to feel that we are accepted and that our mistakes are forgiven. However I have to say that the Thais have found a very beautiful and engaging way to do this. Happy Loy Krathong!

Wednesday 21 November 2007

Feeling at home ... all it takes is a 'hello'


I have just returned from Manila in the Philippines. My first trip to the country.
From my first reaction it felt like another Asian country and I felt, once again, like another outsider ...
Until the first local spoke to me in easily understood well spoken English ( ... a street vendor.)
Despite being a long way from home I have never before realised just how close to home a "Hello'' can bring you. The fact that the Philippinos could communicate and understand me so well was a very comforting feeling.
Its obvious I know, but until one is starved of something one never appreciates it's importance.
I cant help but think that Asian countries that have strong English skills are surely those that will be easiest to do business with, and therefore will succeed over neighbours who are more difficult to communicate with and understand.

Saturday 17 November 2007

The land of trials; Ten things I love about Mototaxis


1 - A mototaxi has no MOT test. It may be brand new, or it may be held together with elastics, gaffertape of string.

2 - Mototaxi drivers (like delivery boys in London) earn more by speeding wildly through traffic which can cause the odd adrenalin rush as they jump red lights, undertake buses or use pavements as an alternative.

3 - When a Moto driver needs to cross the oncoming traffic and he sees a gap (I wouldnt call it a gap!) he will usually pull in front of a bus or truck as they are travelling slower than other vehicles. My Dad always said "if you're gonna go, make sure its not in front of a bus!'

4 - When the path in the road ahead narrows because two cars are pulling closer together, a Thai moto driver does not slow down to avoid the crush, he accelerates.

5 - Moto drivers give you helmets: THAT DONT WORK. Clearly its not passenger safety being taken into account here, its police fine avoidance, plain and simple.

6 - Not all motos are the same and many simply dont fit Farang!

7 - Moto drivers will shout out and chat to passing friends, whilst doing 80 kms down Sathorn (It's a five lane freeway.)

8 - Moto drivers will happily smoke ciggies whilst ferrying their passengers one handed.

9 - My moto trips are sometimes the highlight of my day! The adrenalin, the abandon, the wind, the view.

10 - The thing I love most about moto drivers is they get you where you want, very quickly indeed! Whether they use roads, parks, pavements whatever. Given the average speed of a car in BKK is approx 5-6 Kms an hour. That's a beautiful thing!

The land of trials


As everyone knows, Thailand is a very visually beautiful country. Its people (especially its women) are pretty, in the real sense of the word. They are immaculately presented and very graceful. The Thai pride is immense. A Thai will put enormous effort into what they do to ensure that its presentation and therefore its perception by others is of a very high quality.


A few examples;
The delivery boy will spend ten minutes in the lift doing his hair before he walks into an office.


The banana seller on the street although poor and with very little equipment will have a very well arranged, beautiful stall. A westerner would be hard pressed to do the same with a few boxes and a banana leaf.


My driver (K Sam of karaoke fame) will hand you a chilled towel a bottle of water, a box of sweets and a microphone the moment you step into his taxi.


When checking into a hotel a bowl of fruit will be beautifully arranged, with flowers in a vase and petals on your pillow.


Sounds the same the world over I hear you say, well no. In Thailand it really is different. Its about the ratio of externalness and internalness. Because of this however this visual pleasure is misunderstood by many westerners.


Ultimately from what I have worked out, presentation is the very fundamental basis of Thai culture, because perception really is everything; Doing your job is not as important as pleasing your boss. Getting an excellent outcome (on a project) is not as important as having a process that is lavishly presented and enjoyed (or at least noticed) by everyone.


Thai culture and people are truly amazing in a way that we will never really understand. On the outside we seem to be the same, but what drives our similar behaviours (smiles, presentation etc.) is harshly juxtaposed. When living and working here it often feels like we clash! This brings tension especially in a business sense.


That is why I have named this post 'The land of trials', because for a Farang like me, behind the smiles are a mass of complex behaviours thoughts and motivations that do not match those that sit behind the smile on my face (and why does no one ever frown for goodness sakes?)


So instead of trying to explain things, for now, although that is my ultimate aim, I have decided to start a series of observations. No fancy formats. I'm going to pick random topics in daily life and list ten things I love about them! Almost hoping some insight or understanding will float to the surface.
Even if it doesnt it should be fun in the meantime ...